I had lived in Hong Kong once before during a 2-month summer internship in 2011. But this time, it was different. At the end of 2021, I had permanently relocated to HK , using it as my home base and as a springboard for other mainland cities in the future.
Half a year later, I reflect how it has felt to be living here, having spent most of my life in England.
Culture
Although I was born and raised in England, my parents have maintained a strong sense of Chinese heritage and tradition in the family. Every year, we celebrated Chinese New Year, Mid-Autumn Festival and several other holidays.
When I celebrated my first Chinese New Year in Hong Kong this year, I felt a sense of familiarity and belonging. I had no trouble adapting although there were a few customs that I had to check with my parents. To thank the hotel cleaner, I gave her a red packet for her son.
(Wix stock image)
Local Language
I appreciate that some overseas born Chinese may not be lucky enough to have the opportunity to learn Cantonese or Mandarin. Only a fraction went to Chinese weekend classes like I did.
I have come across British born friends who can get by with only basic phrases, relatives who can't read Chinese and HK-born friends who use English much more than Cantonese.
Not really a big problem in HK, most signs are bilingual and a lot can understand basic English. That's the thing, there are people who have lived here for decades but cannot read, write or speak Cantonese. But I have noticed some smaller businesses such as cafes that only have Chinese menus.
Before I arrived, I'd already made it my mission to strictly adhere to Chinese and only use English for necessary work. After all, to improve language fluency, one needs to use it and apply it in real life situations.
Initially, I was quite rough around the edges, having had barely half a chance to speak it in the 4 years since I was last here. My main problem was the differentiation between the 6 tones. It was worsened by the fact that I speak Hakka with my family and half-baked Mandarin with my friends. But I actively avoided speaking in English which is challenging in a global city like Hong Kong.
Some of the locals like to insert English words into their sentences so they end up speaking more English than me! What I do is I chat with the cleaners in Cantonese. I speak to the building staff in Cantonese. I talk with my hotel friend in Cantonese. I order my food every single day in Cantonese. Most evenings, I also have local television in the background so that I can adapt to new phrases.
After 6 months, I can gladly report that my Cantonese has improved to my own satisfaction. It now comes much more naturally to me and I no longer need to "prepare". Thinking back, nobody has really commented on my imperfect Cantonese but perhaps they were being polite. I know some locals can be pretty blunt. A few weeks ago, a bank worker expressed surprise because he thought I was a local when I had to reveal that I was born abroad for admin purposes.
I try to type messages in local colloquial Cantonese whenever possible but it takes me at least three times longer compared to English. This is something I need to work on. I look up words if I can't remember how to write it by guessing the Jyutping pronunciation. After using the phrase for several times, it normally sticks in my brain.
But I certainly cannot consider myself a native speaker for quite a while. There are still big gaps in my vocabulary, ones that are used less frequently in everyday conversation. If I was asked to give a speech in Cantonese, it would still most likely be a horrible mess.
Food
In the UK, my diet was mainly semi-Western, semi-Chinese home cooked meals. Since arriving, I have switched to mostly Chinese cuisine with a smattering of Japanese, Korean, Thai and Vietnamese food. My taste buds are in paradise.
There is just so much choice and very often at unbelievable prices. I can easily get a delicious meal for HKD$40-$60.
Living Space
One of the biggest downsides is that space costs a premium in HK. It is the single biggest factor impacting affordability.
Due to the pandemic, I have had the option to live in a hotel at fairly affordable rates. Yes, cheaper than renting out in my home city of Birmingham. The room size and facilities were just what I needed. I do appreciate that these rooms would have cost far more in the pre-pandemic era.
Convenience
Hong Kong really is the most convenient city I have ever stayed in. I've not worried about forgetting something because shops are practically everywhere.
The public transport can take me pretty much anywhere in HK at affordable prices and I have not missed driving (probably because I drove excessively in the 2010s). I can get to the beaches, mountains, forests, wetlands and islands within 1 hour.
Safety
I feel safe going out at all hours of the day. The city always seems to be awake and certain convenience stores and takeaways will be open.
Pace of Life
Hong Kong is famous for its rapid pace of life. It has given me a refreshing perspective on life and bursts of creativity. The atmosphere gives me inspiration and motivation to focus, both in the urban areas and in the countryside. I feel there are plenty of opportunities here, if one looks for it.
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